Yokohama Squash: A "Study in Form and Texture"
By Randel Agrella
Introduction
An important change happened in the mid-19th century when Japan opened its doors to the West, bringing Japanese culture and trade to America. One of the newcomers was the Yokohama squash, a rare winter squash that had already been grown by Japanese gardeners for centuries. Let’s take a look at the journey of Yokohama Squash - from its Japanese roots to its role in today's heirloom gardens.
The Arrival of Yokohama Squash
Until the mid-19th century, Japan was seen as a mysterious Oriental land, closed to most Westerners and virtually all Americans. In the 1850s, with Commodore Perry’s forcible “Opening of Japan,” the situation changed dramatically. Japanese trade goods and art became available, captivating the imagination of a generation of Americans.
Plants were part of the cultural avalanche. One such is Yokohama squash, a superior winter squash that had evolved through centuries of painstaking selection by meticulous Japanese gardeners.
In America, Yokohama was introduced by a wealthy New York City horticulturist, James Hogg. Hogg’s brother Thomas visited Yokohama, Japan, on business, sending home seeds from Japanese varieties hitherto unknown in the West. In 1863 Hogg successfully grew the variety, naming it “Yokohama.” Hogg claimed it was superior to the Hubbard types which were at the time the standard in American gardens.
Rise of The Yokohama Squash’s Fame
Other horticulturists enthusiastically agreed, and Yokohama squash soon experienced a short-lived burst of popularity. J.H. Gregory, as quoted in The Garden, an Illustrated Weekly Journal, London, 1873 wrote: “It is quite flat in shape, with somewhat of a depression on each end...It is deeply ribbed, and the flesh, which is of lemon color, is remarkably thick, making it the heaviest of all Squashes in proportion to its size. The flesh is very fine-grained, smooth to the taste, and has a flavor resembling the [Canada] Crookneck...In external color, before ripening, it is of an intensely dark green, covered with blisters like a toad’s back; as it ripens it begins to turn a light brown at both the stem and blossom ends, and, after storing, it soon becomes entirely of a copper-like color, and is covered with a slight bloom.”
Yokohama Squash Today
Sadly, Yokohama fell out of favor after a couple of decades, virtually disappearing until being rediscovered in the early days of the heirloom movement. Modern gardeners were no less impressed. William Woys Weaver wrote in Mother Earth News that when he grew Yokohama it “resembled large chunks of hardened lava. Gray-black, other-worldly, yet hauntingly beautiful, this unique heirloom vegetable...was a visual study in the Japanese affection for serenity through form and texture.
“Not only that, the ‘Yokohama’ possesses one of the most complex flavors I have run across in any squash or pumpkin I have grown. Everyone’s taste buds are different, but I detect hints of Asian pear, mango, avocado, lemon balsam, and if you have experience with tropical fruits, the unmistakable aroma of sapote. Can this be a squash?”
Yes, it can be a squash, but of the most admirable kind. Not only is the variety possessed of singular flavor and texture, but the 3- to 4-pound fruits can be stored for many months with no loss in flavor. Disease and pest resistance come as a bonus, making Yokohama a world-class heirloom, deserving of a place in every garden.
Main Takeaways
Horticulturist James Hogg first brought Yokohama squash to America. Its unusual look and flavor first drew in American gardeners, and the squash experienced a surge in popularity in the 1870s. After a while the Yokohama squash seemed to fade into obscurity for a while; however, nowadays it has managed to impress modern gardeners once again. The Yokohama squash is prized not only for its culinary properties but also for its storability and disease resistance, making it an excellent addition to any garden.