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Winter Squash Seeds, Buttercup
(Cucurbita maxima). The satiny soft texture and unmistakable chestnut flavor of this turban squash is reminiscent of the famous ancient Japanese bred kabochas. In reality, this exceptional variety was bred from a chance cross between the Essex and Quality varieties at North Dakota State University in the 1920s as a replacement for sweet potatoes. The rugged plants thrived in the notoriously brief N.D. growing season. Early maturity and natural insect resistance were appreciated by researchers, and exhaustive taste tests were conducted. Selection resulted in dusty aquamarine-colored fruit of perfect family serving size with bright orange flesh, of exceptional mild sweet flavor and creamy texture. The nutritious starchy flesh made a perfect substitute for those northern growers yearning for the elusive semi-tropical sweet potatoes of the South. A shining example of pre-industrialized breeding, where flavor and texture are considered equally important as yield and vigor.
- Sprouts in 7–12 days
- 90-100 days to harvest
- Requires full sun
- Planting depth: 1 inch
- Plant spacing: 36-48 inches
- Ideal temperature: 70°F to 95°F
- Frost hardy? No
Growing Tips
Buttercup squash thrives when grown in well-draining, fertile soil with plenty of sun exposure. Water deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to dry slightly between watering sessions. Keep an eye out for squash vine borers and powdery mildew. Mulching helps retain moisture and deter weeds. Regular feeding with a balanced organic fertilizer boosts fruit production and overall plant health.
When to Grow
Start Buttercup squash seeds indoors 3–4 weeks before your last expected frost, or direct sow after all danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures are at least 65°F. In warm climates, a second planting can be made in midsummer for a late fall harvest. If you’re not sure how to find your first and last frost dates, consult our blog post 'Our Experts Answer Questions, Share Resources.'
How to Sow and Plant
Plant seeds 1 inch deep in fertile, loose soil enriched with compost or well-rotted manure. Buttercup squash needs space to spread, so sow seeds 36–48 inches apart in rows or mounds. Water thoroughly after planting and maintain consistent moisture during germination to encourage strong, healthy sprouts.
How to Grow
After seedlings appear, thin to the strongest plants. Support sprawling vines with ample space or train them onto a sturdy trellis to save garden room. Regularly check for pests and diseases, and apply organic remedies as needed. Deep, infrequent watering encourages deep root growth. Harvest Buttercup squash when rinds are hard and skin color is deep and uniform.
How to Save
- There are four different species of squash: Cucurbita maxima, C. pepo, C. moschata, and C. mixta. They will not cross pollinate with each other, so it is possible to grow one of each species for seed saving without worrying about cross pollination.
- If you are planning to grow several varieties of more than one species, you can bag the blossoms and hand pollinate to avoid crossing.
- Whether it is a summer or winter squash, you must let the fruit completely mature before extracting the seeds, and cure for at least two weeks.
- Scoop the seeds, place them in a bucket, and add just enough water to cover. Let sit at room temperature to ferment for two days before rinsing off the pulp.
- Lay seeds out to dry on newspaper or paper plates.
- Stored in a cool, dry place, seeds will remain viable for up to four years
FAQ
How long does it take for Buttercup squash seeds to germinate?
Buttercup squash seeds typically germinate in about 7 to 12 days when soil temperatures are consistently between 70°F and 85°F. Warmer soils will speed up the process slightly.
Can Buttercup squash be grown in containers?
Yes, Buttercup squash can grow in very large containers (at least 20 gallons) with a sturdy trellis to support the vines. Choose dwarf varieties if space is extremely limited.
Do I need to hand-pollinate Buttercup squash?
In many gardens, natural pollinators like bees will do the job. However, if you notice poor fruit set, you can hand-pollinate by transferring pollen from male to female flowers using a small paintbrush.
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